Description
Fans of Bill Telepan's old venue Judson Grill have followed him to his Upper West digs, a zigzagging room in sea-foam green decorated with giant farm paintings. Any dish is likely to come festooned with vegetable relishes, pickles, oils, and confits. An optional second course is offered between appetizer and entrée, and the four-course prix fixe is a bargain. An ideal succession might be a minty tabbouleh of Roman faro topped with yellowtail sashimi; a gloriously soupy spaghetti carbonara with fresh peas, house-cured pancetta, and a runny poached egg; and pork done four ways, sided with creamy grits.
