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This Jackson Heights institution's sole product is the stuffed flatbread called paratha, in many versions. Order, say, a "taza mix veggie paratha," and the gals will slap it, pat it, and throw in on the griddle with mustard oil, which smokes like the devil, sending a haze through the L-shaped room. Turning and re-turning the flatbread, the baker finally pronounces it done. And as you hold the finished product in your trembling hands, every bite is heaven.
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