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Tataki addresses a concern that very few sushi restaurants in this country do: sustainability. Sustainable-sushi advocate Casson Trenor helps Kin Lui and Raymond Ho source fish, based on the Monterey Aquarium lists. The chefs do know how to do right by the classics, and their substitution of soy-lacquered black cod for unagi is inspired. Their specialty, though, are ornately garnished, balls-out American rolls like the Golden State (spicy scallops, apple, and seared albacore) and Ratatouille Roll (tempura eggplant, zucchini, peppers, and fried garlic chips).
Spicy rolls aren't a revelation in the landscape of city sushi bars, but Tataki found a way to exclaim that its version is one of the fieriest in town. The Extinguisher Roll arrives at the table literally on fire, the corner of the plate torched for dramatic flair. The roll itself layers spicy amberjack tuna with avocado, habanero-infused masago (fish roe), and hot sauce. This combination is enough to make you reach for a glass of water in no time. More »
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