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At Taste of India in the University District, the entryway overlooks the glassed-in kitchen, and the window right along the busy stove offers a fascinating view: little saucepans, filled with bubbling delights, competing for space over the flames; chunks of meats and fish threaded onto giant skewers for a quick plunge in the barrel-like tandoor oven; an older Indian man in a turban washing dishes, one by one. The menu is standard Indian: rich coconut curries, creamy masalas, fiery vindaloos, all of which are available with vegetables or your choice of meats. There's a separate list of pure vegetarian options, including a Madras chili masala with crisp-cooked squash and peppers.
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