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Though it also does Chinese-American takeout and more substantial entrées - both of which you should avoid - Taste of Formosa's strength is its dolled-up versions of Taiwanese street snacks and xiao chi, or "small eats." The decor is pure Asian pop, from the overcoiffed young men singing on TV to the pale green walls and black wood tables, and the food is carefully plated on ceramic squares instead of doled out from market stalls. Center a meal on a bowl of braised beef noodles redolent with cinnamon, star anise, and saday paste, or ginger-brightened sesame-oil chicken soup. Then surround it with snacks and cold plates: succulent pork belly Hakkan style, a tapioca-flour crepe studded with custardy oysters, and a turnover with chives and scrambled eggs.
Has it been long enough since the Great Pork Belly Craze of 2005 to stage a revival? The people who care about fashion have sneeringly returned bacon to its populist origins, though bacon is still giddy from the attention and just starting to... More »
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