Here is perhaps la naranja's most-thorough restaurant dedicated to the cuisine of Hidalgo, the Mexican state best known for its obsession with roasted lamb. Barbacoa is the best seller, but the summit of Don Victor's lamb is the weekend-only pancita de borrego, lamb's stomach stuffed with the little guy's organs. As with haggis, Don Victor doesn't even bother to mitigate the flavors: it's all funky, unapologetic liver, heart, tripe and sweetbreads, rubbed with chile, stuffed into a stomach, then roasted--impossibly fatty and incredible.
What is it about Huntington Beach that it gets great Mexican restaurants that its residents don't deserve? Tacos Jerez, Tacos El Chavito, any number of mulitas specialists over the years—these are all regional Mexican stars, but the majority of... More »
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