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Think Mezcal gone the way of The Jeffersons -- a humble Mexican-American taqueria that moved on up to Cherry Creek North. The decor here is south-of-the-border kitsch, the staff a veteran crew, and the menu a Colfax-meets-suburbia version of Mezcal's award-winning tacos, Chama's killer posole and tamales evidencing style and intelligence.
The pupusas at Tambien started out as a simple staff snack, a way for prep cook Sonia Hernandez, who hails from El Salvador, to swell the bellies of the hungry kitchen line with the national street grub of her homeland. But because pupusas -- those flattened orbs of masa, water and salt rolled into a dough, griddled on the flat top and oozing with molten Jack cheese -- make your head go dizzy with yearning, Sean Yontz, Tambien's executive chef, made the very wise decision to roll... More »
Denver drinkers used to be content ordering snifters full of ice, cheap tequila, sweet-and-sour mix that made your teeth squeak, maybe a lime wedge, and all sorts of top-secret (and cheap) ingredients guaranteed to give them a big headache in the morning. If they wanted to get really fancy, they might even order their margaritas frozen so they didn't have to taste what was going to give them a big headache in the morning. But then Denver drinkers started studying tequila, differentiating the... More »
Tambien is all about the timing. When Jesse Morreale and Sean Yontz realized that Sketch just wasn't going to make it, they closed it up, fast, and turned the basement space into a darker, more sophisticated version of Mezcal. Today, Tambien is a great spot for after-dark boozing and carrying-on, with an uncomplicated menu full of Mexican comfort foods, a kitchen that works late and a big bar stocked with some of the best south-of-the-border intoxicants ever devised by man. More »
When Jesse Morreale and Sean Yontz decided to duplicate the success they'd had at Mezcal with Tambien, they actually outdid themselves on the margaritas. Although the house recipe is ostensibly the same here as at Mezcal, Tambien puts a little more care -- and a slightly larger tequila pour -- into these deceptively simple drinks. There's no sweet-and-sour to make your teeth squeak, no tidy-bowl blue coloring, just good 30-30 tequila, a splash of Triple Sec and, most important,... More »
Money's tight, times are hard, here's your fucking Christmas card. Given all the bad news, I'm having trouble getting in the holiday spirit this year — so I'm making an effort to get out of the house and spend time with friends rather than stay... More »
Jesse Morreale, owner of Tambien, called me at home last Wednesday night. "So, how is it?" he asked with no preamble, no hey-how-ya-doin'. "How is what?" I asked, feigning a sweet, downy and unsullied ignorance. "How is it?" "How is what, man?... More »
Mexico, Christmas 2001. Laura and I, in a fit of wild-goose inspiration, had quit the bright, dusty and idiot-ridden confines of Albuquerque, New Mexico, for a quick run through Truth or Consequences, Las Cruces and Vado, aiming the blunt nose of... More »
I hate working out, and I hate people who say how much they love working out. To me, working out is a necessary evil — like taxes, dating and menstrual cycles. So when I heard there was a gym called the Anti-Gym, I got excited: I thought working... More »
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