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Williamsburg's newest taquería lurks beneath the M and J tracks, a small boxy space with a counter that allows you to pay close attention to the cooks as they whip up, from fresh masa, your huaraches, sopes, and quesadillas a the latter emphatically not the bar snack, but a generous flop of corn dough folded over a choice of fillings. Suadero (stewed beef) and tinga (fiery Pueblan chicken) are our favorites. Among bigger feeds, the enchiladas bandera recreate the Mexican flag: three tortillas decorated with red sauce, crema, and, best of all, green sauce-a zingy pre-Colombian mole fortified with fresh herbs.
I had high hopes when I sauntered into Taco Santana, and not only because it called to mind a certain top-notch San Francisco guitarist. I'd been snooping around under the J and M along Broadway in Williamsburg and, having found a couple of... More »
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