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Taco Max has a great concept - more than a dozen different tacos, from all the usual Mexican suspects to more exotic ones featuring foie gras and caviar, priced individually and (mostly) cheaply, presented primarily for take-out in a grim, gritty neighborhood that could really use an inexpensive little restaurant. Unfortunately that great concept isn't well executed. In spite of its "Fresh to the Max" motto, guacamole was brown, radish garnishes were funky, and fillings of chicken, roast pork, and grilled sirloin were dry and chewy. The only really successful taco was filled with achiote-tinged snapper and chunks of grilled pineapple. Flautas weren't bad, at least when they weren't burned in the fryer. Tortillas and salsa were very good. Too bad the rest of the food wasn't.
If great concepts were personified by guacamole, Taco Max would be able to fill Miami City Hall with mashed avocado mixed with cilantro, onions, and the juice of several thousand limes. But a great concept is not personified by guacamole. So... More »
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