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After years of running what he termed a "European bistro," chef-owner Ludger Szmania (pronounced Smahn-ya) recently decided to reinvent his homey Magnolia dining room as a steakhouse. The neighborhood restaurant now turns out a mean New York strip, punched up with a proprietary seasoning blend that's heavy on paprika. Szmania's serves potatoes five different ways, but there's no better match for steak than its bronzed, hand-cut fries. And for menu nostalgists, there's still schnitzel and sausage on the menu.
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