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It's dark, it's pouring rain, and you're lost, deep in the strip-mall heart of Bellevue. But lo, there is a safe haven: Szechuan Chef, the latest venture of Hoang Ngo and Cheng Biao Yang, former owners of Little Saigon's Seven Star Pepper. Then your head starts to swim again, faced with a couple hundred choices, divvied up into mild, hot, hotter, and hottest. Our advice: Close your eyes, put your finger anywhere on the menu, relax, and await the huge, glistening, steaming stir-fries headed your way. Traditional Chinese medicine suggests that the Szechuan hot pots, which you'll spot steaming away at half the tables, are the perfect tonic against the ill effects of a Northwestern winter.
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