Description
Located just off the second stop into Brooklyn on the L train, Suzume is one bird in a flock of innovative Brooklyn-style ramen shops, which are remaking the genre in the borough's image. The broths are decidedly newfangled: one features a butter-flavored pork broth, for a double-fat wallop, while another is flavored with charred apple and pickled vegetables--a Brooklyn passion. The best bowl deposits a roast salmon filet in a spicy miso broth, over which toasted flakes of dashi wave. But the real weirdness of this neighborhood spot--narrow and lit mainly by the streetlights--is sushi, which is a co-specialty of the menu. The raw fish is mainly sustainable, making it one of the few places in the city with that attitude when it comes to sushi. Rolls are a specialty, including a Montauk yellowfin tuna number heaped with straw made from fried potatoes, and a sesame-sprinkled mackerel roll with the pickled ginger inside. --Robert Sietsema
