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Finally, a fit competitor for Kuruma Sushi (7 East 47th Street, 317-2802). Sushi Yasuda in Midtown is all blond woods, accented by a single twig of pink orchids and the green banana leaves on which the glistening sushi and sashimi are deposited. Contrary to form, the sushi's also great at the tables, and the matsua special ( 12 pieces plus a half maki roll) allows you to pick from regular selections and specials alike-the fattiest otoro, unrubbery Japanese octopus, four kinds of yellowtail, and two eels that have never seen the inside of a plastic bubble pack.
You must sit at the sushi bar, of course, and enjoy an omakase programmed by the itamae. Let him regulate your meal, but suggest he start with the fattiest belly tuna. The sequence will undoubtedly include some really interesting things flown in from Japan, like weird shrimplike creatures and great sea urchin, unlike any you've ever tasted (no iodine odor). Make sure you let him know you'll eat anything and expect to pay $60 or so per person at Sushi Yasuda. More »
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