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A spare strip-mall sushi joint, with the requisite neon Sapporo sign in the window and the small, glossy picture menu on each table. The draw - or gimmick - here is all-you-can-eat sushi: $11.95 at lunch and $15.95 at dinner scores you as much nigiri sushi, rolls and selected other dishes as you can handle. The only catch: You pay a surcharge for anything you can't finish. The nigiri sushi is straightforward, the rolls the standard assortment of California and Philadelphia, spider and rainbow. A few rolls and other dishes are available à la carte, but the all-you-can-eat option offers too much value to ignore.
In theory, all-you-can-eat sushi is a terrifying concept, the death blow to a noble cuisine struck by the imperialist reach of gluttonous America. I imagine spider rolls as long as party subs, whole tuna loins carved tableside, wasabi paste... More »
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