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Old standards like sauerbraten and wienerschnitzel sparkle with clear and distinct flavor at this German restaurant, whose high-ceilinged interior resembles a Bavarian barn (well, a barn with a dozen beer taps and a red-walled shrine where you can drink them before dinner). Everything at Suppenkuche is prepared exquisitely, from a composed salad of fresh corn, red cabbage, and yellow beans to delicate spaetzle and crisp, golden potato pancakes. The beer list is German to the core; when you see everyone around you drinking foot-high half liters, it's impossible to resist joining in. For Sunday brunch, all Hayes Valley gathers around the wood tables for bratwurst, farmers' omelets, and Emperor's pancakes with brandied raisins and plum compote.
Recently, a British friend lamented to me about the lack of places in San Francisco to get what is apparently an English staple this time of year: mulled wine. I didn't apologize for our country mostl... More »
It's the most magical time of the year, at least for those of us who love liters of German beer flowing like water: Oktoberfest! Like the good festival city it is, San Francisco has plenty of options ... More »
The promise of beer-filled boots attracts crowds to Hayes Valley's Suppenkuche on Saturday nights, but come back the following morning and you may be surprised. Not only does the restaurant offer a fu... More »
When I read that the San Francisco Symphony was mounting a short festival, provocatively titled "Innocence Undone: Wagner, Weill, and the Weimar Years," devoted to German music composed between the wars, I had two thoughts in quick succession: I... More »
"Can't you write about anything but California cuisine?" the reader wailed. I hated her for being right. I do write too much about it. But I have a defense: I'm drowning in extra-virgin olive oil, suffocating under slabs of seared ahi tuna,... More »
Flying in the face of fashion, Suppenküche has been dishing out superlative German cooking in its cheerful, light-wooded corner spot in Hayes Valley for more than a decade. Our favorite starter is the Vesperplatte (an assortment of cured meats, including ham, blood sausage, and salami, with cheese and pickles), which goes perfectly with the sturdy, seed-sprinkled wheat and rye breads. But we also love the crisp pickled herring (served with sour cream, onions, pickles, and boiled... More »
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