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While Superba's charm is all about atmosphere on first look, there's some damn good food waiting to back up that atmospheric promise. Pastrami made of porchetta di testa — in other words, pastrami made of rolled-up pig's face — is served on rye bread with slices of dill pickle. The couple of bites this treat provides have so many taste associations that it's hard for your brain to keep up with your tongue: lardo, in the strips of slippery fat; pepper and coriander in the pastrami cure; vinegar and dill and crunch in the pickle; mellow porcine comfort in the piles of pig.
Like so many trends in Los Angeles, the wine bar scene here seemingly took forever to develop. But in the last decade, it has burst into bloom with energy and creativity. Wine bars have become part of the city's vinous fabric, places to try new... More »
Here in Los Angeles our embarrassment of riches wine-wise might sometimes lead to a forest-for-the-trees blindness, with too much to weed through on the shelves or the wine lists to actually find some... More »
Superba Snack Bar slipped so easily into its community, and so quickly seemed inherent to its Rose Avenue neighborhood, that it felt as if it had been there all along. The small, square building, cut open at the front so that the majority of the... More »
We food writers are a cranky bunch. Given today's blog cycle and demand for daily conversation, any small nuance of the dining world is fodder for essay-length dissection, usually of the negative vari... More »
It's easy to start nodding off when people drag out the old "New York vs. Los Angeles" debate; it's a tired one, and largely a comparison of Big Apples to orange groves, anyway. But after Bon Appetit ... More »
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