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Anybody who dropped in to Sugar Reef years ago could go back today and suffer no future shock: Nothing seems to change - the open-air restaurant on the Hollywood Broadwalk still follows a rhythm as soothing and predictable as the sea its ocean-colored rooms open out on. Paper-covered tables offer jars of crayons for doodling, and a French-Caribbean menu features dishes beloved by the Reef's many return customers: Jamaican pork with authentic French-style gratinéed potatoes, a tropical fish stew redolent of coconut milk and green curry, and roasted duck topped with mango salsa. An eclectic wine list offers lots of vin by the half bottle. The staff patters in polyglot tongues - Spanish, French, Russian, and if you show up twice, you'll find yourself inducted into a coterie of beloved regulars.
It's tough to imagine what might have convinced a handsome Parisian chef (and sailor) and his chic American wife to give up what sounds like an idyllic existence on Saint Bart in the French Caribbean where they presumably spent their days... More »
There are places that make a more authentic jerk or bake their fish in banana leaves or boast a grandmother who cooks from secret recipes passed down through generations of African slaves. But for the slow-time pace of a summer evening on a remote island, it's hard to find a restaurant as redolent of Caribbean airs as Sugar Reef, the 12-year-old bistro on the Hollywood Broadwalk that never seems to close its doors against the salt breeze. The fare is mildly spiced French Caribbean, grilled... More »
Call it Florida French if you'd like. It bears only a passing resemblance to fares you'd find on Paris' Left Bank. Likewise, the Caribbean-inspired décor at Sugar Reef does not evoke scenes from snooty bistros and pretentious cafés. But the food... ah, the food. Oui, it is decidedly French -- French-Caribbean, that is. Open for nearly ten years and run by husband-and-wife team Patrick Farnault and Robin Seger, Sugar Reef takes the best of France, dusts it with island and Asian... More »
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