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This Egyptian old-timer Suez Canal specializes, somewhat obsessively, in fish. Whole fish (sea bass, red mullet, and porgy) are dusted with whole wheat flour, grill-blackened, then doused with salt water-you must peel off the skin to get at the succulent flesh. Then there are red-sauced stews of squid and shrimp, and huge grouper fillets, which arrive lightly breaded and laked in a tart garlic sauce. Apart from these seagoing selections, the only other options are chile-heaped fried eggplant, a perfunctory salad, and dirty rice-making you think there's a Cajun back in the kitchen somewhere.
Jersey City's Alexandrian fish places have become legendary. The best is Suez Canal, where the modest premises belie some of the freshest locally caught fish around, rubbed with whole-wheat flour and charcoal-grilled - peel and discard the skin to reveal the smoky flesh.
As a potentate who ruled from his "crib" by the Nile River, the boy king Tut must have watched the reed boats slide into the muddy waters and cast their nets for fish. It will be a revelation for him to see how similar the modern Egyptian piscine provender is. One of several Jersey restaurants originating in Alexandria, Egypt, Suez obsesses on local fish, presenting such species as whiting, mullet, and porgy. Apart from a salad or two and the smoky baba ganoush, that's about all there is on... More »
You might go just for the neon. Waves of it course across the rear wall, upon which a happy blue porgy and pink octopus dance, and orange Arabic script crawls across the front windows. In addition, there are nautical motifs galore, including... More »
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