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Stopsky's proves how difficult it is to do deli right, making its sad case with leathery pastrami, pasty matzoh balls and firm bricks of dry noodle kugel. The sweets are slightly less oy-provoking: Dainty blintzes and matzoh brei wouldn't be out of place at a Sisterhood brunch. But securing an order requires waiting in a long line at the deli counter or dealing with the perpetually perplexed wait staff, whose foibles help undermine the restaurant's ambitions to dominate the Seattle deli scene. The restaurant's lately moved away from its kosher-style roots, serving strozzapreti ("priest stranger") noodles and meats pooled with cream sauce, but the results don't justify the identity switch.
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