Description
Stefano's placemats are decorated with a map of Italy, murals of the Tuscan hills hover over the tables in one corner, and a trellis of grape vines and wine bottles frames the cash register. Yet the menu at this neighborhood restaurant, owned by a Guatemalan family, is equally divided between Italian and Central American food. The pizza's perhaps a step up from Boboli, but Guatemalan dishes are often good: fat little pork tamales called chuchitos and fat little sausages called longanizas, seasoned with garlic and cilantro; tostadas called enchiladas chapinas, heaped high with beef, pickled beets, and eggs, so colorful they could double as party decorations. On weekends, the restaurant serves its best dish: pepian of chicken or beef, simmered in a creamy pumpkin-seed and tomato stew.
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