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Steel is a gracefully distinct deuce of Vietnamese and Japanese cuisines, employing a small army of chefs and sushi masters in the process. It also may require a small fortune to experience, so cash out your bloodied high-tech portfolio and fortify it with your platinum Visa. Vietnamese Carpaccio, sea salt and chili pepper calamari, sushi and the deep-fried whole fish are the focal points on the menu. Plus, Steel secures its napkins and utensils with hose clamps at each place setting. So the kids will have something to play with while you count your portfolio pennies.
Minutes I waited for my food in Steel count: 45 Things I ordered that required cooking count: 0 I drove with purpose. I saw the red "S" on the black awning, double confirmed that I was in the right place at the sight of a couple of ass-clowns... More »
Just as our review of The Wharf@Bayview Marina hit the streets, the doors of The Wharf, tucked over Lake Ray Hubbard, slammed shut. Word came via e-mail from the restaurant. "THE WHARF IS CLOSED," it barked. Khanh Dao is out. Partner Mike Chen is... More »
What Dallas lacks is a truly tight, sophisticated dining and lounge experience on the level of New York or Paris or London. How many times have we heard that? And there's no shortage of budding and established operators who insist they have the... More »
It's no secret that drinking can lead to daffiness, but so can abstention, especially the forced kind. February 20 marked the 70th anniversary of the congressional passage of the repeal of Prohibition. So to celebrate this momentous occasion, the... More »
Breeding is a funny thing. Cross a dragon and a lion and you get Drálion. But what do you get if you pollinate iron with a little creative bookkeeping? Steel Restaurant & Lounge, at least if operator Khanh Dao's partner Mike Chen is to be... More »
Steel's Vietnamese/Japanese cuisine is not necessarily the easiest chow to mate with wine. But the 40-plus by-the-glass list (embracing sparkling, white, red and dessert wines) includes an easy reference guide with tasting notes and pairing suggestions to coach you through the dining experience. Tethered to this is a list of more than 65 sakes, also with tasting notes and pairing suggestions. Imagine that. But Steel's grape mettle erupts with its hefty bottle list--more than 1,300 entries... More »
This exotically erotic gulper is a libido depth charge with a little proof pumped in to facilitate heady reflection. The potion consists of uni (sea urchin roe), ponzu sauce, tobiko caviar (flying fish eggs) and either Hennessey or Rémy Martin XO cognac kicked with lime juice. The ingredients are layered in a cordial glass and topped with chopped scallions. Throw it back, swallow hard and smile. More »
It's considered a delicacy in Vietnam where it is often accompanied by cognac. But at Steel, it's served on a narrow platter heaped with flesh and shreds of mint, a Vietnamese herb called rau om, slivers of lemon peel, fried onion and chopped peanuts. This mound effectively veils the ruddy meat. Only the folded edges of the thin, succulent prime rib eye sheets are visible, like loins covered in a grass skirt. It's delicate and flush with fragrance and alive with refreshing piquancy. Plus, it... More »
Steel's namesake is sparingly applied throughout the restaurant. The metal almost has to be unearthed from the wood and granite decorative embellishments to be noticed. It appears on a pillar separating the bar from the dining room, which is armored in glistening sheets, and it is applied to the walls in the rest rooms. The massive front door is sculpted from steel and serves as the badge from which the restaurant's name is cast. But steel sneaks onto the table, too. Flatware is swaddled in... More »
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