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The wait can be long if you come after a certain hour on Sundays. Everyone who arrives seems to have awakened after having dreamt of Starling Diner’s French toast. Seriously, you should see this thing. Our humble rag anointed it the Best French Toast a few years ago, but it was a category we created specifically for it—there were no other French toast candidates considered. To see it for the first time will permanently alter your definition of French toast. First, it’s broiled, not fried. And it starts not from a square loaf of bread, but rather, a length of baguette, which they soak whole in a bonafide crème anglaise. Then its topside is slit open to receive an injection of mascarpone. That finishing touch technically distances the dish from breakfast and nudges it ever closer to dessert; but who’s complaining? Two toasts come to an order, one buttery log leaning on the other as they dribble squiggles of sauce and a smattering of fresh berries, caramelized apples, or cherries cooked in its own reduction.
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