"So you're familiar with tapas?"
I don't fault the server for asking the question. On two previous visits to Ice Kitchen, two different servers had made the same inquiry. They were just following orders, I'm sure. Yes, I'm familiar with tapas. You're familiar with tapas. All of us in St. Louis, in this unexpectedly lovely late summer of 2009, are familiar with...
The lifespan of a restaurant any restaurant other than fast-food joints and coffeeshops, any establishment that shoots out of the gate beholden to a finely hewn culinary genre, a name-brand chef, a marketing concept follows a trajectory like that of a pro athlete's career, or a bottle of dependable-but-not-immortal wine. It tends to mature and then devolve along a bell...
Scenes from an Italian restaurant:
Tuesday, 8:22 p.m. Todd Sanders, the apron-swaddled owner of 10th Street Italian -- an almost alarmingly modest ten-week-old walk-in eatery in downtown St. Louis -- asks his last two customers of the night if they live in the neighborhood.
He's surprised, perhaps not surprisingly, to hear that they don't. In fact, they're west-county...
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