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Knowledgeable hands took over the lease of the venerable St. Francis Fountain, in continuous operation from 1918 to 2002, and spiffed it up into a simulacrum of the corner soda fountain: all your favorites (breakfast all day, burgers, sandwiches, ice cream specialties), well made, popularly priced, and served to you at the counter or in snug wooden booths. Some dishes are straightforward classics (egg salad, BLT), and some have been slightly tweaked (pecans in the chicken salad). The place uses Mitchell's ice cream for its excellent shakes, malts, and sundaes.
Now that cooking has become entertainment and cooks our favorite performers, the counter is no longer the worst place in the restaurant to sit. Some counter spots require reservations, while others are the only seats you can easily score. Eat by yourself, and you're dining with company. Sit with a friend, and there are a million activities to comment on. Just remember: If you're eavesdropping on the cooks, they can probably hear you, too.Bar Crudo655 Divisadero (at Grove),... More »
Sitting in one of St. Francis Fountain's eight wooden booths and ordering, say, a grilled ham-and-cheese on rye (which comes with your choice of french fries, home fries, fruit salad, potato salad, egg salad, macaroni and cheese, small garden salad, small Caesar salad, cup of soup, black beans, or veggie chili -- whew!), seems like a minivacation. (And a bargain, at $7.) A vacation to a place where time has stood still. The fountain has been in continuous operation since 1918, and... More »
When the St. Francis Fountain, a genteel Mission refuge since 1918, closed its doors in May 2002, many feared it wouldn't reopen. But in November its neon sign lit up again, highlighting a shiny new paint job (alas, no more pink) and its own vintage signs back up on the walls. The ice cream is no longer made on the premises (though it's the next best thing: Mitchell's), but the outstanding sandwiches -- like the 49er, a BLT with egg salad -- are still made lovingly, and the double malted... More »
Decent pie, fine shakes, weak scrambles, and heavily tattooed waitresses nursing hangovers worse than yours, still pissed at their alarm clocks, and taking it out on you that's St. Francis Fountain, b... More »
Pardon me while I have a Herb Caen moment. As much as I thank God daily for things like camera-equipped cell phones, supermarkets that double as banks, and panko-crusted macaroni with fromage blanc, I still wax nostalgic for San Francisco's... More »
There's a lovely little list-as-essay by Bruce Cole titled "A summer manifesto -- sorta ...," a reminder to enjoy the foods of this season while they're in season, on his useful food-besotted Web site, www.sautewednesday.com. There are the... More »
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