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Those who remember the old S&T on the western end of Roosevelt Avenue-where card players often elbowed out diners-will hardly recognize these new premises, filled with brocade furniture and display cases of objets d'art. The food is every bit as good, beginning with the cold plates of eggplant, cucumbers, honeycomb tripe, seaweed, bamboo shoots, and baby eels bathed in fiery oils. More complex in flavor, the main dishes tend to be zapped with combos of green chiles, dried red chiles, chile oil, and Sichuan peppercorns. The not-hot selections are also well worth seeking out: tea-smoked duck and sautéed bitter melon with ground pork, for example.
December 25 dawns and you're totally burned-out. You've endured zillions of grating TV commercials, looked away in disgust from innumerable billboards, and spied enough Santas and elves to make you reach for your buggy whip. What you crave is an... More »
A little over a year ago, I reviewed an unusual Sichuan restaurant aimed at Taiwanese patrons. Spicy & Tasty was located on the outskirts of Flushing's Chinatown, a walk-down establishment in a seedy strip mall with not much in the way of... More »
A dozen or more Sichuan places have sprung up in the last year, most of them pretty good, but none hoses its scarf with fiery, tingly, weird-tasting Sichuan peppercorns like SPICY & TASTY does. The hotter dishes employ red chile oil and green chiles in addition to peppercorns. Hottest of all is "beef tripe in hot pepper sauce." Be forewarned. More »
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