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Entering the dining room is like passing through a wormhole into an alternate universe, and the skylight extends the science fiction feel. Paella comes in several variations, the seafood in green sauce is way garlicky, and, if you're lucky, you'll receive gratis the wonderful short rib appetizer, laved in thick brown sauce and endearingly fibrous.
Hey, old-fashioned West Village Spanish paella is supposed to be heavy, so's you can share one with two or three friends. And this objective is admirably achieved at Spain, a 40-year-old dowager that looks much older. The garlicky paella devotes as much volume to lobster, mussels, shrimp, clams, chorizo, and chicken as it does to the rice, which is shockingly yellow and appropriately sodden with juices from all of the above. Dig in! More »
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