Description
The dining room at Spago in Beverly Hills feels very much like the descriptions of the restaurant in its early glory days — a place where beautiful people go to pop corks and have fun; a rediscovery of the idea that fine dining doesn't have to feel so strict. There's a sense of decadence, yes, but it's almost a throwback to the grand-hotel dining of 100 years ago. Where else could you go to have almost any dining whim fulfilled, be it Hong Kong–style lobster tails, a whole roast duck, côte de boeuf, or tagliatelle showered in fresh white truffles? There's a dry-aged New York steak with potato bacon terrine for the steak-and-potatoes lot, served with a silky, oniony steak sauce. There's a chirashi sushi plate, which presents changing combinations of pristine fish and salmon roe. It's mind-boggling how many different corners of the globe this kitchen manages to touch on. It's even crazier that it manages to do justice to every single type of cuisine it attempts.
Like
Dislike