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Young and daring, chefs Teague Moriarty and Matt McNamara apply El Bulli and Alinea's avant-garde idiom to farm-to-table cooking at Sons and Daughters, working with herbs and vegetables from McNamara's mother's garden as well as potions and devices from Le Sanctuaire, San Francisco's molecular gastronomy shop. A meal at this Nob Hill restaurant could begin with a spoonful of compressed melon, avocado purée, and one pink peppercorn, and end with a gooseberry-studded panna cotta glazed in a floral lemon verbena gelée. The pair aren't aiming to shock with their California menu, but to avoid cliché, and dishes like a squab leg confit with squab breast cooked sous-vide and pea-tarragon purée are as exquisite as they are exciting. Others contain one element (root-beer jus) that veers comically off course. Nevertheless, their creativity is fueled by tons of raw talent. One note: You can order a la carte off the tiny menu, but each dish is scaled for the (affordable) four-course prix-fixe.
one of the best new restaurants of 2010. http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/09/26/FD411F9G4G.DTL
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Before filing my review this week of Sons and Daughters, I spoke to co-chefs Teague Moriarty and Matt McNamara. I was curious about how they picked up their knowledge of the foams, gels, powders, emul... More »
Tired of the same old dichotomy that places Northern California's farm-to-table cuisine far form the glossy geometry of so-called molecular gastronomy? So are we. So is Jonathan Kauffman. In today's "... More »
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