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Soban is a slightly odd institution, nice in a way that's probably closer to the way your mom's best friend's kitchen is nice than to any decorator-driven slickness, run by a couple who speak minimal English but seem to make themselves understood; not especially cheap, but full of families. The cooking would go brilliantly with a glass of lightly chilled Beaujolais or an icy bottle of soju, but alcohol is neither served nor permitted. The menu is pretty small, but a lot of customers seem to come several times a week. The English-language picture menu is even smaller, yet there always seems to be something you've never spotted before. (If anybody gets to try the dish where you wrap meat and vegetables in big ggaenip leaves, which seemed to be on half the tables last time I was in, let me know how it is.) See full review.
Soban is the type of place that could be easily overlooked. It's a minimalist but cozy mom-and-pop restaurant, the kind with old, lacquered wood tables and weathered pictures of soups and stews on the wall. It's not until the meal begins that you... More »
Leading up to this year's Best of L.A. issue (due out Oct. 4), we'll be counting down, in no particular order, 100 of our favorite dishes. 86: Galbi Jjim at Soban. Walk into any cozy Korean mom-and-... More »
Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show. Roast marrowbones with prawn sambal In a year when Los Angeles cooking came together with a coherence it probably hasn't seen since the mid-1980s, this dish at Spice Table seemed to express everything... More »
Click here for Anne Fishbein's slide show.A couple of weeks ago at the annual KBBQ Cook-off, for outstanding Koreatown barbecue dishes, a woman walked up to the judging table after the winner had been chosen and asked if I'd ever been to Soban, a... More »
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