If it weren't for the picnic tables out front, you might think this Bayview window was selling mufflers or lumber, not barbecue. But it has its own detectable smoke ring, a smell that billows out of the window and surrounds the customers in line. The barbecue (ribs, pulled pork, brisket), smoked over cherry wood, is vaguely Kansas City style, and perfectly competent; the 10-hour brisket is the best of the selection, served with a bracingly sweet-tart tomato-based sauce. The sleeper of the menu: smoky, dark crimson chili.
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