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As the name implies, there is plenty of barbecue-from brisket to ribs to real Carolina-style pulled pork. But Smoke is more than a barbecue pit. Chef Tim Byres, formerly of Stephan Pyles, takes the name very literally. He cooks almost everything the restaurant offers over burning hardwood in the traditional way of the pre-electric South. Fresh fish and scallops carry a smoky tinge, as does house-cured meat and grilled vegetables. Breakfast is one of the city's best. But dinner ranks up there, too-as long as you don't mind smelling like smoke on your way home.
$12 got me 5 or 6 thin slices for warm dry brisket (1/2 lb per menu). Sides for $4 each so for 8 bucks I got a cup of baked beans (they were ok) and another of potato salad. Add a $6 beer, tax & tip and you have a meal I'll never repeat. I guess I should have ordered the brunch but my advice is to go to Pecan Lodge if you're looking for "best brisket".
SMOKE is fancy pants BBQ in a good way. The big rib or brisket at lunch or dinner is fantastic, but my favorite thing to order is the cabrito. And BRUNCH at SMOKE is a revelation. The pancakes or the brisket hash. You will not regret this.
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If you've read this week's feature -- The 30 Essential Texas Restaurants to Visit Before You Die -- by food critic Katharine Shilcutt at our sister paper the Houston Press, then you've no doubt alrea... More »
I feel like I'm not the novice I used to be with these reviews. When I started out I didn't know what brisket was, what heavenly planet barbecue sauce had descended from, why I could just suddenly ord... More »
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When you see the Big Rib, Smoke's giant-honking meat shank with its hominy casserole and fresh herb chimichurri, you'll shout something reminiscent of Denzel Washington in Training Day: "Fred Flintstone ain't got nothing on me!" It's so big and meaty, you'll think first of how you'll conquer the dish -- "hominy first, with meat?" Then, the walls drop away, and you're left in savory bliss because you've waited no longer. Dear readers, Oak Cliff's tenderest meat is this rib. It's the rib... More »
Get it with brunch--a pile of these dry ham flakes on the side--and you'll wonder why you bothered ordering anything else. The ham has a way of taking over. Smoked out back with a blend of mesquite, pecan, cedar and oak, or in the hundred-year-old smokehouse indoors, a taste of chef Tim Byres' ham is like discovering a whole new animal. Nothing about it suggests the watery vacuum-sealed lunch meat you knew before. You'll find there are fatty pieces and crustier ones, but all of it... More »
Barbecue joints aren't frequently known for their cocktail prowess, but pseudo-posh meat-house Smoke isn't exactly your typical barbecue joint, anyway. Yeah, they serve cold draft beer and potato salad, but alongside their unrivaled brunch offerings, the Oak Cliff hilltop restaurant serves the finest Bloody Mary in Dallas, possibly in the entire land. Thick and tomatoey, Smoke's homemade Bloody Mary mixer soothes a hungover stomach while more substantial sustenance is on the way, though... More »
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