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Coney Island Avenue's Little Lahore may be dying, but great Pakistani cafés are popping up elsewhere in Brooklyn. This spruce new café with plenty of comfy seating offers grilled-to-order kebabs, stuffed or unstuffed tandoori flatbreads, and a steam table that displays some of the greatest hits of Mogul-style South Asian cuisine. Favorites include a cloudlike whip of lamb and lentils called haleem, gingery goat curry, quails in a thick red sauce, snake-squash curry, and aloo or qeema paratha-the former stuffed with very spicy cumin-laced potatoes, the latter with a chicken mince that glues the layers of pastry together.
Even though stories still circulate about a dwindling Pakistani presence in the city, and even though Coney Island Avenue's Little Lahore seems to be shriveling, Pakistani restaurants have been popping up elsewhere around Brooklyn, offering cheap... More »
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