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Skovorodka ("The Skillet") is one of the new, family-style Russian restaurants that eschews the glitzy, Casio-driven floorshow that's standard in the old-guard places of Brighton Beach. The menu takes a pan-post-Soviet approach, with Russian, Georgian, Azerbaijani, Uzbek, and even Turkish and Israeli dishes on the menu. The whole smoked mackerel makes a wonderful cheap starter, and so does katchapouri (here spelled "hatchapouri"), a Georgian flatbread oozing white cheese. For mains, go for the chicken tabaka (an entire fried bird paved with crushed garlic) or kupati (a pork sausage laced with pomegranate syrup, and not all that sweet). And don't miss the dull-sounding "potato with mushrooms."
If you're tired of the Casio-thumping Russian restaurants of Brighton Beach and their ilk, where how much you're tipping commands more attention than the ditzy floor show, drop by Skovorodka ("the Skillet"), a Russian restaurant where the menu becomes the center of attention. That bill of fare is a compendium of post-Soviet cuisine, including Russian, Georgian, Azerbaijani, Uzbek, and even Turkish selections. 615 Brighton Beach Avenue, Brooklyn, 718-615-3096 (11235) More »
Brighton Beach is home to a slew of Russian restaurants, many of them founded on the Vegas nightclub model. But under the Q tracks lurks Skovorodka ("The Skillet"), a family-style restaurant that eschews the Casio-pounding, sequins-wearing floor shows of the other spots, offering instead home-style fare of the former Soviet republics, including the Georgian standard, chicken tabaka--a pullet flattened like a pancake, bones and all, fried to a deep brown, and paved with crushed garlic.... More »
The mix of Russian restaurants in Brighton Beach has changed profoundly in the past few years. While the typical establishment was once a giant nightclubby place like the National, where Casio-pounding entertainers in sequins regaled tables of... More »
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