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Go not for the prix fixe at Silver Trumpet, but rather for the regular menu. Some of the dishes are as beautiful as the windowed view overlooking a shimmering manmade lake, as well-executed as any Laguna Beach bistro, and, at times, even creative. A chicken noodle soup started with a dry bowl of tooth-tender carrots, zucchini, pencil-thin asparagus, penne pasta tubes and bits of char-roasted chicken; its invigorating broth was not introduced until it arrived at the table, poured from a separate vessel. An appetizer of shellfish had three clams, three meaty mussels, and three curled balls of shrimp in tomato-based sauce chunky with chorizo and white beans, which made the dish more substantial than an equal portion of bouillabaisse or cioppino. The grilled hangar steak comes with a crunchy-skinned, twice-baked spud that looked like a miniature tree stump waiting to burst a creamy middle imbedded with good bacon and gilded with gobs of melted Cheddar cheese. But even better was its counterweight: an arugula salad dressed with just enough vinaigrette and shaves of Parmesan that cleansed the palate for the next mouthful of meat and potatoes.
Of the chefs we interview for On the Line, few check in with us after the fact. So it was double the pleasure when a former subject not only called us, but provided newsworthy intel. More on them late... More »
I was attending a wedding reception at a storied LA hotel when a chef friend and I started to talk about the food we were eating. We lamented that despite the grandeur of the venue, the entrées had the markings of food cooked en masse. The filet... More »
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