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The end of 2003 marked a passage that on the restaurant scene mattered far more than the start of another new year: Sidney Street switched hands. Husband and wife Kevin and Mina Nashan now handle the back and front of house, respectively, and co-own the handsome, Old World-style restaurant. Virtually all the signature dishes remain -- the sharp steak wasabi, the luscious filet béarnaise -- while new ones suggest that devout patrons have nothing to fear. The more things change, the more they stay the same.
- Gerard Craft of Niche (7734 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton; 314-773-7755) will find out in a little over a week whether he is the James Beard Foundation's "Best Chef: Midwest" for 2013. Ahead of the gal... More »
St. Louis fell short in this year's vote for Food & Wine magazine's "People's Best New Chef" award, but now we have another chance. Food & Wine announced this morning the "People's Best New Pastry Che... More »
Gut Check tells you what's new and tasty at our favorite restaurants. Yesterday Sidney Street Cafe (2000 Sidney Street; 314-771-5777) owner and chef Kevin Nashan tweeted a a striking photo of a whole... More »
St. Louis' neighborhoods are gems in their own right: full of history, great people and, as far as Gut Check is concerned, fantastic food. Each week we'll take you into a specific neighborhood and poi... More »
The James Beard Foundation this morning announced the semifinalists for its annual Restaurant and Chef Awards (link PDF). This year, two St. Louis chefs made the cut of twenty in the "Best Chef: Midwe... More »
When contemplating the menu at Sidney Street Cafe, we're often tempted to make like that great gourmand Ron Swanson: "Bring us all the food you have." How are we supposed to choose from among the recent options of applewood-smoked duck, the trio of Missouri lamb (recently served with cheese curds -- cheese. curds.) and the filet Béarnaise, stuffed with lobster and langoustines. And that is after we've resisted the temptation to build our entire meal out of appetizers like the... More »
When more than a dozen St. Louis chefs traveled to Swiss Meat & Sausage Co. in Hermann to watch the butchering of a Mangalitsa pig -- a prized breed originally from Hungary -- Kevin Nashan watched raptly as the master butchers took apart the hog and then was the first volunteer to attempt one of the unfamiliar cuts. His eagerness won't surprise fans of Nashan's work at Sidney Street Café. His passion for good food is evident in every dish, whether something new crafted... More »
For nearly a quarter of a century, Sidney Street Café has been the crown jewel of Benton Park and among the city's most popular restaurants, one of the first spots discussed when dinner isn't merely dinner but a Special Occasion. Even more remarkable is the fact that the restaurant continues not merely to prosper -- it remains one of the toughest reservations in St. Louis -- but to innovate. Chef Kevin Nashan and his wife, Mina, bought Sidney Street from long-time owner Tom... More »
Kevin Nashan probably doesn't want to be mentioned here. Most likely he's fine with people not knowing that he's the new head chef at Sidney Street Café. As of December 2003, Kevin co-owns the wildly popular, twenty-year-old fine-dining landmark along with his wife, Mina and his brother, Chris -- but you won't find that information mentioned on the restaurant's Web site, or written up in any press release, or, God forbid, blared across some cheesy banner hanging from the restaurant's... More »
St. Louis is home to a number of good breadmakers: Companion, Black Bear and, of course, the ubiquitous St. Louis Bread Company. But Sidney Street Café, which bakes its own, has dipped back into St. Louis' French history with the beignet. A favorite in the coffee shops of New Orleans, beignets are lumps of deep-fried dough, typically dusted with powdered sugar and eaten while piping hot. Sidney Street serves baskets of these steaming-hot beignets, but not as a sweet dessert item --... More »
Of all the great appetizers to be appetized in the vicinity, the mushroom strudel at Sidney Street Café floats in a high stratum. A flaky phyllo crust encloses a melange of porcini, shiitake and oyster mushrooms; Gouda and Swiss cheeses; shallots reduced with pinot noir; and herbs and spices. The strudel, which looks like little blintzes, is coated with a sauce of more wine, herbs and spices. Though the appetizer is vegetarian, the reduced wines and other ingredients give it a rich... More »
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