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Miami New Times
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When non-Japanese restaurants, most commonly Thai joints, tack on sushi bars for purely commercial reasons, the sushi is generally either pretty lowest-common-denominator or pretty silly: a pedestrian selection of fish; lots of rolls featuring cream cheese. But not at Siam River. Though the Thai dishes are as good as anywhere else in town, the sushi bar is a delightful surprise; a dramatic revamping in the fall of 2001 transformed the usual tacked-on afterthought into the source of some of the most creative, and unquestionably freshest, sushi in South Florida. A daily-changing specials menu features all the usual fishy suspects, plus unusual flown-in seafood like aka kamasu (Japanese red barracuda). If it's in season don't miss broiled fresh Florida stone crab sushi in a circle of toasted nori seaweed, topped with melted uni "sauce" that looks like grilled cheese but tastes like savory warm seafood custard. Beyond-sushi small plates are ingenious, too -- stuff like a jalapeño-spiked salmon/avocado tartar, served to scoop up with crisp chips that look like potato chips but are actually thinly sliced, spiced, and deep-fried grouper slices.
BEST SUSHI Siam River 3455 NE 163rd St North Miami Beach 305-945-8079 In a town where sushi is served everywhere, from normal Japanese restaurants to kosher tea rooms, it's hard to pick just one as the best. If it's fashionable elegance you're after, Bond Street and Nobu can't be beat. If you put your faith in native Japanese chefs, head for Matsuri or Sushi Deli at the Japanese Market in North Bay Village. And if you're looking for "white tuna," head anywhere but Siam River, where... More »
He's young. He's energetic enough to hound Miami fishing boat captains every day for the most sparkling local catches. He's compulsive enough to haunt Miami's university libraries uncovering the undersea world's deepest secrets. To be honest, he's a complete bleeding madman on the subject of uncooked fish, which is why you can count on finding nothing but the freshest -- never frozen -- seafood at Kevin Cory's sushi bar at Siam River. The Thai dishes are fine if your dining party includes... More »
In the restaurant reviewing game, food critics with souls sensitive to criticism from readers go work in more polite areas of the country, such as Hell's Kitchen. Here at New Times, on the other hand, there is absolutely nothing we like better... More »
Rivers have been invested with so much symbolism they've become a literary tradition. Samuel Clemens made us all believe a trip down the river was the great American adventure. Joseph Conrad convinced us it was an avenue into the amoral soul. For... More »
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