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There are many surprises in the course of Shunji's $80 tasting menu, which consists of 10 to 12 courses (at times the dishes feel too composed to be called omakase, but too informal and unstructured to be labeled kaiseki). There might be rock shrimp and mountain yam stuffed into zucchini blossoms and fried tempura-style, then served with a pinch of sea salt mixed with finely ground green tea powder. There will most likely be balls -- delicate things made from cooked purple yam, blue cheese and dried persimmon; or one made from ankimo, buttery monkfish liver that might be the current top contender for a foie gras replacement, topped with a spoonful of caviar and shaved chives.
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