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The decor at Shun, like its sushi, takes its cue from Calvin Klein: creamy neutrals, spare lines, good tailoring. You can find a few American-style mega-rolls on the menu, but in general owner Yoshi Nishizawa practices the one-fish policy (on a recent meal, the Spanish mackerel, hamachi, and sea urchin nigiri were sublime). Sushi, of course, isn't the alpha and omega of Japanese cuisine, and it's worth ordering warm small plates such as the vegetable tempura, nasu dengaku (Japanese eggplant broiled with two kinds of miso), and chawan-mushi (savory steamed custard).
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