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This cavernous, chi-chi restaurant specializes in French-Asian fusion, and seeks to single-handedly make the FiDi into a dining destination. That's a dubious proposition, which is too bad, because the food, if pricey, is mainly excellent. If you don't mind the dining room being only half-full, this would make a good choice for a special occasion dinner. Two rounds of amuse-bouches are offered to start. A first course of peaky-toe crab and flying fish roe is generous on the crustacean, and topped with galangal gelee and orange nubs of sea urchin. Even better is a starter of fried zucchini blossoms stuffed with blue spot prawns and lemongrass. As for mains, Thai pepper steak is a good choice, mainly because it's topped with a glazed beef cheek that you wish would last forever. Instead of paying for dessert, rely on the salty caramel truffles included in the array of petits fours.
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