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Touted as the restaurant which introduced Seattle to sushi, Belltown's Shiro's still draws a discerning crowd. The sushi here is always fresh, and best enjoyed as Shiro Kashiba advises: The kindly-faced chef has strict rules about soy and wasabi application. But the restaurant's best dishes aren't found in the raw category. Sauteed butter geoduck is rich and clean, steamed monkfish liver is surprisingly earthy and Kashiba's signature cod is a triumph of flavor-balancing. The common complaints about Seattle service are never leveled against Shiro's, where staffers are inordinately apologetic if a customer has to wait 10 minutes for a table.
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