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Crafted by the wives of famed Dallas chefs Dean Fearing (Fearing's) and Kent Rathbun (Abacus), Shinsei is a sushi-centric, pan-Asian restaurant that Lynae Fearing and Tracy Rathbun have shot through and through with obligatory hip and an Eastern philosophical energetic vibe that crimps conversation, even though Buddha once said a man is not to be considered a good man just because he is an able talker. That is why if you can maneuver around these sensual challenges, you'll be rewarded with food that is near sacramental in its ritualistic beauty. Miso-broiled black cod. Orange ginger-braised kobe short ribs. Coconut chicken jalapeño poppers. Sushi that touches the tongue like a brush of satin. A culinary illumination.
My friends were in town for the weekend and I wanted them to experience the Best Dallas cuisine. We are not foodies but know what good food is. The experience at Shinsei was disastrous and embarrassing. We ordered summer rolls, crispy brussel sprouts, yellowtail sashimi, thai fried rice and traditional miso black code.
The summer rolls were wrapped into extra-dry rice paper and were falling apart; scraps were sold for crispy brussel sprouts!; sashimi's generously soaked in a rice vinegar and sprinkled with old basil; black code was just ok but nothing extraordinary and not worth the price. 2 dishes had to be sent back as were completely inedible. Watched as a group of other folks sent a tray of sushi back as well. We paid about $100!!!! basically for a bowl of rice which is tastier at the roadside takeout. On the top of everything, the servers were inefficient and inattentive.It's a rip-off. Never coming back and would not recommend to anyone; do not understand why there is so much hype about that place...
As someone who spends a good bit of time in restaurant dining rooms, I'm accustomed to being told "Just let me know if you have any questions about the menu." But the offer usually comes from my server, not a diner at a nearby table. What's... More »
On Wednesday, we gave you the goods on Jason Czaja, executive chef at Shinsei. Today, we asked Czaja to finish a few sentences for us. Tomorrow, he shares one of his recipes. I was raised in...Born o... More »
Jason Czaja, the 32-year-old executive chef at Shinsei, wasn't planning to make food his life, but it certainly seems to be life's plan for him. He was studying music performance at the University of ... More »
It's not always on the menu, but you can get it if you call ahead 24 hours with insistence in your voice. Shinsei's perfectly grilled salmon, polished in Mongolian barbecue sauce, is an astonishing thing. A neatly cleaved square of pink rests on a banana leaf. The thick, sweetish sauce drools from its edges. Sesame seeds and parsley are trapped in the tarry thick of it. It's rich. It flakes easily, sliding into neat shingles on the thin layer of fat that bleeds through its fibers. Sweet is... More »
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