Shalimar

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2004 | Best Indian (No Tablecloths)

You order at the counter and pick up the food when it's ready. The tables are Formica, and the napkins are paper. You grab a pitcher of water from the refrigerator, and you bus your own dishes. But the food here is so extraordinary and reasonably priced that it surpasses one's needs for amenities. Among our favorite dishes are chicken kofta (meatballs) heady with cumin; a highly spiced, long-cooked lamb stew; creamy chicken tikka masala; a wonderful buttery dish of chickpeas cooked with... More »
2000 | Best Indian Restaurant

Most of the Indian restaurants around here are gorgeous, brocaded, teak-velvet palaces with spotlit Shivas in every crimson crevasse and humdrum, halfhearted food on every platter. Shalimar is exactly the opposite. In a tiny, noisy storefront setting of styrofoam cups, red plastic baskets, and fluorescent lights, a squad of Pakistani cooks can be seen chopping, skewering, and mixing up aromatic, delicious North Indian grub: fabulously moist, smoky tandoori chicken; creamy, earthy palak aloo... More »

The Church of Trillin

By Meredith Brody | Wed, June 25, 2003

Over the years, I've met several people of whom I've later said, "If they started a religion, I would join it": Betsey Johnson, my friend Stephen Soba, and Calvin Trillin. Of the three, I would say only the Trillin conversion took; Johnson's creat... More »

2004 | Best Indian (No Tablecloths)