Description
Serpentine is located in a former warehouse on Dogpatch’s main drag, identified only by a large but discreet sign painted directly on the building. Inside, the New American restaurant’s space astounds with its verticality: The ceilings soar 20 feet or more, where pipes are clearly visible. High-set metal-framed windows are the apex of industrial chic. Exposed brick, old concrete columns, and wood floors have been warmed up a trifle by a large flower arrangement, a few black-and-white photographs on white walls, and lush, dark velvet curtains in front of the bathrooms. A metal-topped bar runs along one side of the room, backed by a tempting array of gleaming bottles from which issue forth seductive and original cocktails. The other side houses a couple of comfy booths and banquettes lining the walls with simple tables and wood chairs. In early evening, with light still streaming in, you may see happy families; later, the room darkens, the music gets louder, and children disappear. The seasonally changing menu offers delicious modern American cooking, carefully prepared meats, fish, and fowl, paired with well considered combinations of starch and vegetables. Brunch brings neighborhood favorites like buckwheat pancakes and Oregon Bay shrimp benedict.
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