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Miami New Times
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On the right side of this Latin coffee shop are large picture windows adorned with neon beer signs; on the left is a counter that seats eight. In between are red and white tables and chairs set on a hardwood floor and filled with a mostly Cuban clientele who clearly enjoy the social atmosphere as much as the cleanly prepared, low-priced renditions of their favorite foods. At breakfast time people line up for their café cubano. For lunch a kinetic crew slices up a slew of sandwiches from medianoches to BLTs. Dinnertime: vaca frita smothered in sautéed onions; oxtails, available as the daily special Mondays and Saturdays; and churrasco, a juicy, charbroiled flank steak that at $9.95 is as expensive as things get. Main courses are accompanied with rice, black beans, and maduros (fried sweet bananas). Desserts are mostly puddings (rice and bread), as well as the traditional flan. Sergio's is open late on Fridays and Saturdays, and there really aren't many times of day when it isn't humming along to the song of a full, joyous house.
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A couple of croquetas from Sergio's are a meal all by themselves. They're not the bite-size variety found at typical Spanish bakeries. But that's not what makes them the best. To begin with, let's acknowledge that a wiener-shaped conglomerate of ground, breaded, fried ham byproduct isn't the most complicated dish within the culinary arts, though simple things often yield the greatest pleasures. So the only trick is to not screw it up, which Sergio's never does. First they grind the cooking... More »
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