Description
As the name implies, Seersucker is aiming for marginally healthy, WASP-ish Southern food. ("Cleaned-up Southern classics" is their motto.) But ingredients like pork belly, pimento cheese, and fried catfish populate much of the menu, so the restaurant ends up straddling a somewhat awkward middle ground. The best (and most affordable) choices can be found in the snacks and sides categories. A finger of crisp, piping-hot fried catfish comes with spicy mayo and cooling cabbage-radish slaw. Deviled eggs with runny, mustardy centers are just fine. The most memorably delicious dish turns out to be the chicken and dumplings--a concentrated, velouté-based stew of braised chicken with carrots and celery cooked down to a comforting, homestyle potage. Seersucker could use a few more plates like that.
