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Seastar turns out great food night after night after night, food that avoids all culinary cliché while pleasing the eye, delighting the palate, and filling the belly. If you had to categorize the cooking, you'd have to call it "fusion," but that doesn't begin to capture the combined ingenuity and craft that goes into each delicately balanced plate of seafood. And if you think service this smooth is easy to attain, ask yourself: When's the last time you felt in such good hands? Throw in their astute wine adviser, and you've got an Eastside restaurant with no downside at all.
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