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It's something of a miracle that this utilitarian noodle shop, which looks like it was transplanted from Tokyo, is still serving happy diners in the shadow of Giuliani's repulsive Times Square. The gyoza and noodle dishes are all top-notch, and Japanese slurpers sit cheek by jowl with everybody else. They had our favorite katsudon until Katsuhama came along.
Our long pork-belly winter has faded into the back-ground. Following the dictates of our foodie patriarchs, we've obediently sucked down hundredweights of lard, butter, and tallow, and generally treated our weary corpses as oleaginous dumping... More »
No, the winner of this coveted prize isn't in the East Village. Rather, the award goes to Sapporo, longtime delighter of homesick Nipponese, located right off Times Square, where places that are good and cheap are as scarce as inflatable clown shoes. The gyoza are the city's best--crisp and brown on the bottom, yet soft and yielding on top like the thigh of a lover, with a mellow filling of pork and scallions. Available in an assortment of distinctive broths that run from soy to curry... More »