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With its replicas of ancient Greek artifacts, nightclub atmosphere, and booze-fueled bar crowds hitting the dance floor, Santorini Taverna is the My Big Fat Greek Wedding of local Greek restaurants-a fun-loving island vacation. (Santorini's is owned by members of the Nicklow family, the group behind the eponymous restaurant in Crystal, along with several other local dining establishments, whose followers are known to pack the place as tight as rice-filled grape leaves.) When it comes to food, stick with a "when in Greece" approach, as the traditional fare is what Santorini's does best. The Greek Peasant Sampler is loaded with Greek-American's greatest hits (spinach pie, stuffed grape leaves, thin slices of gyro meat with tzatziki yogurt dip) and lesser-known items, such as loukaniko, a spicy, fennel-tinged sausage, and a phyllo-wrapped pastichio, which is a bit like a portable moussaka. And don't forget an order of flaming cheese--Opah!
At six o'clock one Saturday evening, I called Santorini Taverna to see if they could accommodate a party of three later that night. "We're not taking any more reservations," the hostess screeched above the din. "And we don't take names over the... More »
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