As at nearly every Salvadoran restaurant in the county, the majority of dishes on its large menu is Mexican―and just as at every Salvadoran restaurant in the county, ignore those throwaways. Start with pupusas, griddled nicely, thick and wide and accompanied by both the bland tomato salsa that customarily accompanies pupusas and a spicier Mexican cousin that is a worthy topper to the spicier-than-usual curtido. You can get all the other favorites of the Salvadoran kitchen here: gnarled logs of yuca either fried or steamed, golden-fried empanadas bulging with scalding pieces of ground beef. The salpicón, a ground-beef salad served cold with rings of raw onion, then doused in lime juice, jolts as though you're licking a 9-volt battery. But it’s the Salvadoran breakfast that shines, making a drive to its forlorn section of Harbor, far away from freeways and anything else worthwhile.
We're blessed with many great breakfast traditions, both singular and cultural—chilaquiles and breakfast burritos, the Sugar Shack's Surf City pick-me-ups, and the glories of Break of Dawn. But one breakfast that doesn't get nearly enough... More »
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