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Named after the Umbrian saint who loved birds and other small animals, this taquería might be East Harlem's best. You can't go wrong with the antojitos: the potato filled flautas, for example, which come heaped with greenery and crumbled cheese, or the sublime chilaquiles with green sauce-a toss of yesterday's tortilla chips with scrambled eggs. The bigger feeds keep pace, including the quarter-chicken lounging in the pumpkin seed sauce called pipian, and cemitas, big round sandwiches on seeded rolls that constitute a signature of Pueblan cooking.
LBJ was a devotee of an East Austin joint called Cisco's, which had a back room where pols would hang out over a breakfast of migas, a Tex-Mex staple of eggs scrambled with fried tortilla chips and salsa. Unfortunately, migas are rare in these parts, but I'm sure the banana-nosed president wouldn't mind if we substituted the chilaquiles at San Francisco De Asis: freshly fried tortilla chips tossed with green or red chile sauce, with a couple of fried eggs dumped on top, pouring their golden... More »
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